Heston gave me a gastrogasm

[oursin]

This evening for my relatively timely birthday celebration at Dinner.

Our table would have had a spectacular view of Hyde Park had it still been light, as it was, it reflected the action in the glass-walled kitchen behind me. (This, though busy, was a lot tamer than watching Lenny Henry in Chef had led one to anticipate.)

The ambience is - spaciously placed tables, clean lines, no tablecloths, attentive but not overattentive (though a little gushingly enthusiastic) staff.

No amuse-bouches (actually, I'm not sure I recollect those at the Fat Duck, either).

Delicious rustic bread, which we were informed was Specially Chosen by Heston to complement the food.

Starters: I had the Roast Marrowbone, with Parsley, Anchovy and Mace, Pickled Vegetables - adorable teeny wee veggies! and really complemented the richness of the bone marrow. This was, I thought, even better than the marrowbone I had at Le Gavroche. Partner had the signature Meat Fruit (Mandarin, Chicken Liver Parfait and Grilled Bread).

Mains: I went for the Powdered Duck Breast with smoked fennel confit and umbles (deer offal), which was delicious and cooked absolutely a point - none of that 'we cook duck breast pink - chew,chew,chew' thing, just right. Partner had the Black Foot Pork Chop with Spelt and Robert Sauce (I had a bite of this and it was mmmmmmmm). With this we had a side of green beans and shallots but rather regretted not having the chips when we saw these being conveyed to other tables.

Dessert: Autumn Tart (blackberries, figs, very short crust, icecream) - exquisite; partner had the Baked Lemon Suet Pudding with Lemon Caramel and Jersey Cream.

They do a selection of rather poncey teas, but we had coffee, which came with little cups of chocolatey moussy stuff (which of course I couldn't eat) and caraway biscuits, which converted me to the potential of a spice I have always been rather hostile to.

The wines are rather eye-bleedingly priced but we had a very acceptable white, picked by partner, from the Trentino.

I'd go back.

Even thought I suspect that it's not really truly ye old trad Brit cooking - for one thing, a whole range of dishes would have been plonked on the table at once rather than being served as discrete courses, up until the mid-C19th or so. It's still very, very good.